The
Church of Saint
Nicholas at the Galleys (Tserkov sviatogo Nikoly
v Galeyakh) is situated near from the Church
of the Ascension.
This is a very interesting Church. The archaic word "galeya"
in its name was used for large vessels of the galley type
propelled by oars. Evidently there was a quay here at the
bottom of the hill, and above it on the hillside a wooden
Church was built dedicated to Saint
Nicholas, the patron saint of travellers. The Church
is mentioned in twelfth-century records.
The present building was built in 1735 from funds donated
by a rich coachman, Ivan Grigorievich Pavlygin, as
the inscription by the west door tells us. It is one of
the so-called refectory or trapeznaya type Church,
i.e., the main square-shaped building of the Church adjoined
on its western wall with a low refectory, linking it with
the bell tower. The unknown architect of this Church built
it in a style predominant in the seventeenth century. The
ensemble is beautifully proportioned. The main part of the
Church consists of gradually diminishing octagons on a square
base. This plan first appeared in Russian mediaeval wooden
architecture and was later imitated in the stone Churches
at the end of the seventeenth century. The main octagon
is particularly fine, with its slender semi-columns at each
corner and elegant carving round the windows which stands
out in sharp relief against the flat white surface of the
walls. The bell tower with its strong rectangular pillars
reminiscent of Pskov architecture harmonize beautifully
with the main building of the Church by virtue of its light,
graceful proportions and the interplay between the smooth
square-shaped lower section, the octagon-shaped middle section
with its belfry,
and the light octagonal tent-shaped roof. The outside of
the ensemble is decorated with green, glazed tiles.
The Church fits in beautifully with the surrounding landscape
and the whole southern aspect of the town. Its slender white
silhouette stands out well against the darker background
of gardens and houses stretching up the hill. It seems most
likely that the Church was built by a Suzdal architect.
We can see buildings in extremely similar style in Suzdal.